Give rubber!
Before the fans are mounted, rubber strips have to be glued on to decouple the fans acoustically and to ensure a tight fit so that nothing slips later. If necessary, the retaining clips can be bent together a little more so that the hold is firm enough. But it’s enough as it is. The two PWM-controlled noise blockers are used again, although any other good case fan from our tests that doesn’t fail on a slim radiator does as well.
Airflow
I had made mistakes at the beginning of the first test, and placed everything flush as usual. And only then did I take a look at the circuit board and get a fright. The large copper heatsink of the left voltage converter row not only hangs by the heatpipes, but also doesn’t get any cooling air at all. With about 17 watts of power loss under the butt, that’s really sporty.
Therefore, I have packed the fans further to the left in the direction of the slot panel (overhang up to the VRM) and experimentally left a little more space between the two fans in the middle, but then pushed them together again up to the brackets, because it is simply more stable,
Fan control
How to control the fans now is up to everyone. You can also buy an adapter from JST (4-pin) to a 4-pin PWM fan connector from the handler with the big river in his name and use the graphics card control for the fan. For example, years ago I bought adapters from Gelid for around 5 euros, where the whole thing can also be divided into two fans by means of Y-splitters. Practical and it also saves annoying cables.
However, you should then rely on two fan models that manage around 2000 rpm if the card’s PWM curve is not set too aggressively. Fans with 1800 rpm or less are also sufficient for low-cost cards, because the firmware generally runs at higher speeds (PWM percent).
So you may have to experiment a bit more. Or you can connect the fans to the motherboard and work with a fixed speed, like I did in the lab. But then you have more cable clutter.
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