Extruder and heating bed assembly
Next is probably the most difficult and complicated part of this printer, the E-axis or direct-drive extruder. And here directly beforehand a very important information or warning:
FYSETC DOES NOT USE FULLMETAL HEATBREAK!
What does that mean?
Inside the heatbreak is a short piece of Teflon (PTFE) through which the filament is later conveyed. At temperatures of 230-240°, depending on the grade, the material begins to decompose, releasing toxic gases. “Only” in small amounts, but reportedly enough to poison smaller pets.
Do what?
Only print filament that requires lower temperatures, such as PLA. Or even better, buy a Fullmetal or Bi-Metal Heatbreak directly with the printer.
Now that that’s cleared up, the hotend can be assembled!
Besides the otherwise optional and here already included silicone sock the first real advantage of the clone to the original is noticeable, the 24V50WFYSETC heating element is namely with 50W stronger than the one from Prusa with only 40 watts.
Instead of the Noctua fan, however, a FYSETC XY J05E4010M is used, which will turn out to be much louder later on.
Due to the slightly different parts, there are a few minor problems here and there during assembly, namely lack of space. The thermistor cable comes against the guide of the component cooler and also the data cable of the PINDA sample is a bit thicker than intended.
However, with some fiddling and strong nerves, you should be able to get everything in place without modifications. The cable mess will be taken care of later.
But the real problem was that the kit does not come with a thick nylon thread, which is intended for the wiring harness of the E-axis. But with a little creativity, the rest of the PTFE tube can be converted into something similar. To do this, I simply twisted a screw into one end and then screwed it into the hole provided for the nylon.
A little later, the heating bed is mounted on the sled. Unlike the original, there seems to be no difference, apart from the fact that it is the old version for the MK3 with soldered cables.
New models like the MK3S and MK3S+ have the connectors to screw on.
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