Comparison
Let’s start first with the times for reaching the pressure temperature. I made a little GCode file for it, which makes the printer beep when it is ready.
|
Nozzle (210°C) |
vPWR |
Bed (60°C) |
vBED |
Original |
1m 24s |
23,4V |
2m 16s |
23,2V |
Clone |
1m 24s |
24,1V |
1m 58s |
24,1V |
Both printers were previously calibrated via PID Autotune, stood next to each other and used the same SD card with the same GCode. If you want to test it yourself, you can find the separate files for Nozzle and Bed here:
>> Download Test-GCodes
The following are the fan values for heatsink and component cooling:
|
Nozzle FAN |
Volume |
Print FAN |
Volume |
Original |
4140 RPM |
35.4 dBA |
3060 RPM |
46.8 dBA |
Clone |
6840 RPM |
48.3 dBA |
4560 RPM |
40.2 dBA |
Each measured from 40cm distance with a Voltcraft SL-200 meter in 125ms cycles in Lo mode.
And now to the probably most relevant part, the print quality. The same roll of filament and the identical GCode was used, printed via OctoPrint.
By the way, I described how to set it up in this article: DIY 3D Printer Server
All results were obtained with the 0.2mm speed standard profile from the PrusaSlicer, without any tuning or modifications. The pure out of the box experience, so to speak.
Left = Clones | Right = Original
Micro All-in-One 3D Printer Review(majda107 – Thingiverse)
3DBenchy (CreativeTools – Thingiverse)
XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube (iDig3Dprinting– Thingiverse)
|
X |
Y |
Z |
Original |
20.0 mm |
20.0 mm |
20.2mm |
Clone |
19.9 mm |
19.9 mm |
20.1 mm |
In my opinion, both printers deliver very good results, but the original is a little better here and there. Less stringing and better accuracy also speak for themselves. However, it’s fair to say that these points can still be improved with some calibration and fine tuning – on both machines.
The Universal IO Shield v2 by vykku with an incredible amount of retracts is really not an easy model to print, but the clone managed it without any problems.
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