Real achievable clock rates and overclocking
The clock rates and readout is easy this time around. While the GPU clock of the card is still at 2844 MHz for a short time in a cold state, it then breaks away considerably under proper load. Thus, it levels off more or less permanently at around 2530 MHz after complete warming. You can definitely leave it like that. With manual OC and better cooling, a bit more would certainly be possible, but then the card becomes a glutton.
GPU temperatures in the case
The differences aren’t as big as feared if you use a proper case. If you close the panel, the GPU temperature (edge) increases by 3 Kelvin, the GDC hotspot increases by up to 5 Kelvin. Nevertheless, the maximum values of 74 °C (Edge) and 86 °C (Hotspot) are nothing to be afraid of. Unless the thermal pad on the GPU breaks. But I already reported about that in detail in the teardown of the cooler. After the rebuild, the card at least stayed well below 85 °C at the hotspot.
Infrared measurements (heat flow analysis)
Looking at the gaming loop of the original card, we see that the voltage converters stay extremely cool. So the six phases are quite sufficient and we remember the teardown. However, we also see why I would not have placed the backplate thermal pads under the memory, which is also cool, but directly under the GPU.
- 1 - Introduction, technical data and technology
- 2 - Test system and igor'sLAB MIFCOM-PC
- 3 - Teardown: PCB, compnents and 8-Pin issues
- 4 - Teardown: Cooler and thermal grease
- 5 - Gaming performance Full-HD (1920 x 1080)
- 6 - Gaming performance WQHD (2560 x 1440)
- 7 - Latencies, DLSS vs. FSR
- 8 - Details: Power consumption and load balancing
- 9 - Transients, capping and PSU recommendation
- 10 - Temperatures, clock rate and thermal imaging
- 11 - Fan curves, noise and sound sample
- 12 - Summary and conclusion
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