What kind of printer should I buy?
That depends a lot on what exactly you want to print and whether the printer is to become a reliable workhorse or a hobby. And of course also from the budget. If it is clear from the outset that you want to produce small models or figures, an SLA or resin printer is the best choice. Unfortunately, however, these are associated with some health risks if used incorrectly, and are therefore rather unsuitable for beginners. If you want to get started, a classic FDM 3D printer is a better choice for getting started.
The choice of the exact model is not so easy, the meanwhile really gigantic offer can slay you. I will list some of the most popular models in a moment, but before I do, I would like to mention a few points to consider when buying: Community. It is very helpful, especially for a beginner, if you have a large community of users who have the same model, if you have problems or questions. For each of the popular printers there are groups on Reddit or Facebook, which encourage exchange and joint problem solving. Various guides and tutorials further facilitate the commissioning and maintenance. With rather unknown 3D printers, you’re left in doubt about your problems.
Mods / Extensions
Strongly dependent on the first point is also the – at least for me – very important aspect of extensibility. A printer that can grow with its tasks, can be easily improved and that I can adapt to my wishes is a good investment for the future. Especially cheaper models enjoy a variety of self-printable improvements developed by users. Improving machines… Skynet’s getting closer!
Specifications
What exactly the printer offers in terms of features is of course very different, but in my opinion there are still some “must-haves”: First of all you should check if the selected printer has a so-called Thermal Runaway Protection (TRP) or at least if it can be flashed afterwards. Here is a good explanation in English. In short, this protection ensures that the printer’s firmware constantly checks whether the measured temperatures are suitable or make sense and switches off the printer if in doubt. For example, if a temperature sensor is defective, the system does not continue to heat up until the fire starts, but switches off.
I also consider a heatable printing bed to be a basic requirement, even if it is theoretically possible without it for standard material like PLA. However, as soon as more resistant materials are required for printing, higher printing bed temperatures become mandatory. The size of the pressure chamber is another very important specification as it determines the maximum size of the models. I wouldn’t buy a 3D printer under 15 x 15 x1 5 cm if the goal wasn’t just miniatures.
Recommended models for the beginner:
Creality Ender 3 / X/ Pro
- The world’s best-selling 3D printer is ideal for beginners who have a little patience and stamina. Due to the partly somewhat careless quality control the start into the hobby with the Ender 3 and its various variants from butter soft to catastrophic. My first printer was also the Ender 3(X), which almost brought me out of the hobby. After many hours of troubleshooting I eventually gave up and returned the part. But then I could be convinced to try again. And lo and behold, bought at a trustworthy shop and from the beginning it went better than the last model after hours of touching up!
The Ender 3 is now available in various versions, here a short explanation
:-Ender 3: The “classic” and first model of the series.
-Ender 3X: Construction identical to the Ender 3, but has a flexible glass pressure plate with clamps, some spare nozzles in the accessories and sometimes a better extruder-motor- - Ender 3 Pro: Better power supply, more stable base for the pressure bed, removable magnetic printing surface and also the better extruder. Since the different versions are often not far apart in price, I definitely recommend the Ender 3 Pro. But I would not pay more than 20-30 Euro extra.
Creality Ender 3 V2
Although it shares the name with its predecessor, the differences are significant:
4.3″ color display, modern 32-bit silent motherboard and some community-designed improvements are built right in at the factory. Could become the new standard recommendation, but currently still has a small “market share”.
Creality CR-10 / S / Pro / V2
The big brother of the Ender 3, much has been taken over. There are also various variants here, the difference is usually the print volume or size of the printing bed. Several of the modifications between Ender 3 and Cr-10 are interchangeable due to the similar structure.
Original Prusa MK3S
The luxury sports car among the 3D printers For 4 to 5 times the price of an Ender 3 you get one of the best machines in addition to actual warranty and support. With my personal experience I can only agree with the saying “Buy a Prusa, it’s a Printer not a Project”. Because for me the Prusa, my second printer, was really a blessing compared to the beginnings with my Ender 3.
But what you should consider in any case is the kit form. While many printers are already delivered mostly assembled, the MK3S comes separately disassembled down to the last screw. An assembly service is also offered, but thanks to excellent documentation, the assembly can be done in a weekend and you get to know the printer in every detail.
In terms of print quality and comfort features, the MK3s rightly leads several bestseller lists. With the high price you should be really VERY sure as a beginner that you want to do the hobby for a long time.
Original Prusa Mini
Some time ago, Prusa itself probably noticed that there is a big gap in its own assortment in the comparatively middle price segment. It is now filled by the Prusa Mini, so to speak a small MK3s for less than half. Many of the functions and features th
at make the MK3S so popular and good have been adopted. Some is optionally available or has been eliminated for cost reasons.
As a compensation there are modern improvements compared to the aging MK3S like Ethernet-LAN, USB connection and a color display. The Mini also comes pre-assembled, the three components only need to be connected to each other. Those who want a relatively stress-free start and have medium deep pockets should be happy.
Artillery Sidewinder X1
Alternative to the Creality CR-10, also a quite large print volume. By far not as big a community as the Creality machines, but still to be seen more and more often. If you believe various field reports and reviews, you get a rock solid printer that can overtake the aging CR-10.
Anycubic Mega-S
Alternative to Ender 3 with a slightly different design and improvements such as touch screen, two Z-axes and other little things. Probably the second most popular printer with a strong community and many guides for beginners.
Where can I get a 3D printer from?
The Budget China printers are usually available from the relevant sites such as AliExpress, Gearbest, TomTop and eBay. Shipping is often directly from German warehouses or the selection of EU department stores is possible. So you do not have to worry about weeks of waiting and customs. Since the sellers from the Far East often don’t take terms like guarantee or warranty too seriously, I definitely recommend paying via Paypal when you buy on these pages. Especially with Ender 3 you have to be careful not to get a clone.
If you want to accept the extra charge for more security, you can also order from Amazon or other German retailers. You can only get an original Prusa-printer directly from the manufacturer, but in my experience, the service is really first-class. For current offers it is always worth taking a look at the 3D printer category at MyDealz. Unless otherwise specified, most printers only include a small sample of filament. It is therefore recommended to buy 1-2 rolls of PLA at once.
I can only advise against buying a printer from fundraiser sites such as Kickstarter, Indiegogo and others, even if there are tempting discounts.
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