Before someone starts again a discussion about the qualification of us as testers and the sense or nonsense of the measurement: the first test with the not quite randomly selected measurement points is not refuted but fully confirmed by today’s measurement. With a total of 12 sensors, some of which we have deliberately placed in the same way as our colleague Stephen Burke from Gamers Nexus did in his review of the old PS5. So we can compare our new PS5 to his test of the old one, and we’ve also included a few additional sensors. So we now have the claimed values from within, but this does not contradict the measured difference between new and old PS 5 from yesterday’s article.
By the way, everyone is free to count the number of heatpipes, and yes, there are also six and not four, as has been erroneously claimed from time to time. I have already written that Sony has made massive changes to the heat pipes. Instead of generally flattened pipes with tight bending radii like in the notebook, they now have more generous radii and mostly unflattened, round pipes at these points. This could significantly increase performance! The faster transport behaviour of the pipes is certainly decisive. It is also a question of how the pipes are connected to the heatsink.
We did want to leave the two PS 5s in their original condition and measure them yesterday, but now we haven’t been able to do just that, because the people are screaming for the values from inside. Here you go, so be it, so may the games begin again….
The 12 selected measuring points for the sensors
But first we show you the exact positioning of the extra calibrated 12 sensors as a schematic based on the PCB. We have followed the positioning of Gamers Nexus and added our own positions that we still considered important:
Let’s start with the APU as our first focus. First, we position the first “Sensor APU Low” on the MLCC below the APU, where we can also expect the highest temperatures. In addition, we use high quality heat conductive paste, which will also fix the sensor while mounting.
After screwing the bracket we stick the “Sensor APU Mid” between the metal cap and the bracket as close as possible to the APU and screw the bracket. In addition, there is now the third “APU Sensor High”.
Now we position the sensors for the VRM “FETs” between the DrMOS (so as not to block the heatsink) and on the coil “chokes”. The thermal paste again serves as the adhesive.
Now it is the turn of the sensors for “RAM 1 to 3”. In order not to collide and interfere with the cooling, they are stuck directly next to the modules on the PCB, analogous to the other tests. Since they are flip-chip modules, the underside is even hotter and from my own experience and detailed measurements on the graphics cards I know that this can certainly be compared with the temperatures on the top side of the modules. However, in according to Gamers Nexus, we have exceptionally only chosen the top side of the PCB here, as we would have had to remove the liquid metal of the APU otherwise, which would again call the measurement results into question.
There is no question that the PCB should show the same temperatures at a certain point on the top and bottom after an hour of intensive gaming. That’s why we limited our selection to the hottest and the coolest module and selected another one as a control. With further plausibility tests, we were able to find out that the side of the measurement does not play a decisive role here, only the memory utilization.
Finally, the two sensors for “Flash Memory” are positioned and fixed. After that, above “Fan Inlet” (to control the room temperature) and “Exhaust”. Done.