Cooling
Attention! The SSD has an adhesive seal that can only be removed with loss. If you want to keep your warranty, you should leave the sticker on, even if it sits exactly on the chips, which are actually supposed to be cooled via a pad to the backplate. This is very counterproductive and increases the temperature on the chips by around 3 degrees, as the material is also suboptimal.
Incidentally, the blackened backplate is not made of aluminum, but also high-strength chrome-nickel steel, for whatever reason. This is certainly not an advantage in terms of heat, but well, that’s just the way it is. Especially as it is so thick that many of the quick connectors on the mainboards can no longer be locked in place (e.g. MSI). This also eliminates the argument of using the thinnest possible material.
The hollow heat sink, which is screwed to the backplate and made from a single piece of aluminum, has cooling profiles to increase the surface area, but these are located on the inside. This design is hardly worth the difference of around 30 euros compared to a normal SSD, as there are better solutions on the third-party market. But I say “actually” deliberately, because you already get a ready-made solution and don’t have to screw anything together or change anything. However, you can also see that the cooling surface can only be used sensibly if you rely on the internal fan. The case airflow will hardly make a difference here if you leave out the fan. We’ll see whether that’s enough in a moment.
The 2 cm fan is unfortunately not inaudible, but you can remove it if necessary by loosening the three screws if you don’t want the noise. You can then opt for passive operation or a better fan with PWM control and a connector for a normal fan header. Then you don’t have to connect the whole thing to the SATA strand of the power supply, but could regulate it via the mainboard. The temperatures of the SSD can be read out with HWiNFO.
The cooler itself is made of 100% anodized aluminium, which is also easy to determine:
Not much needs to be said about the pads used. They are ultra-soft and therefore practical and stick quite strongly on one side. The mixture of viscous silicone, corundum and zinc oxide platelets suggests a rather mid-priced pad, but it is perfectly adequate for this purpose. I just hope that it doesn’t oil out (“bleed”) over time.
Temperature behavior and power consumption
The measured temperatures in idle and light operation (e.g. while gaming or working on Office) in passive mode without a fan are ok. It is important to note that the controller always gets hotter than the NAND, especially under real load. This is less likely to occur when gaming. Either you use workstation applications or you clone an SSD. In this case, it gets really hot, especially when used as a target medium (2 TB write).
From left to right, you can see normal, rather load-free desktop operation, passive operation without a fan and active cooling with Maya the Bee plugged in and activated.
In passive mode, you can quickly reach 70 °C or just above in the controller area. This is nothing you want to touch, but throttling only sets in much later. The NAND is significantly cooler here. If you switch on the fan, it gets another 8 to 10 degrees cooler. Whether you want this, but can tolerate the noise, depends on the other background noise of the respective computer. In idle and load-free operation, you can easily stay below 40 °C. You can leave it that way.
The temperatures naturally result from the power consumption, which remains moderate in idle mode and only rises to up to 9 watts under medium load and to just over 11 watts under full load. Peaks during cloning can go up to just under 13 watts, but this is the absolute exception.
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