Variant 1 – Crafting hour and zero tariff
12 volts and 5 volts are supplied via the power supply from the power supply. Nice side effect: you can also pick up the voltage difference between 12 and 5 volts as an additional 7 volt rail and thus provide 3 voltages for the fan from the outset. We already wrote about the voltage regulation, so that we can change the speed of all fans that are not PWM-controlled via different voltage values. The lower the voltage, the lower the speed.
Lower speeds generally also bring less noise. In any case, however, the so-called start-up voltage, i.e. the voltage that is required at least for the fan to start spinning from the standstill, must be taken into account. However, this is always slightly higher than the specified minimum voltage for the minimum speed! For example, some fans can be controlled down to 5 volts once they are running. Even, however, they might not start with this low voltage. So it must always be tried first, whether the safe start-up is also given. In order to be able to handle these different voltages, one has to help oneself with simple and also self-built adapters, if one adheres to the predetermined scheme:
With the help of a special tool, the pins can be pulled out of the Molex connectors and reinserted as needed. The pins are locked on the front side only by 2 small barbs, so that you can quickly achieve success even with a good tweezer. Bend and push slightly backwards and then pull out non-violently. The self-built adapter is ready! Please forget frieze with twisted wires and insulating tape, something like this is not only stupid and prone, but even fire-hazardous.
Variant 2 – the 7 volt adapter with pre-resistance
Elegant solution can also be found directly on the shop shelf, but only for fans with a certain performance. Depending on the fan power, more or less a lot of voltage drops over the resistor, and you only reach the 7 volts approximately. Power fans often let the resistors burn through, so it is best to use this variant only up to fan power around 1.5 watts.
Variant 3 – Professional fan controllers
Here, the accessories trade gives pretty much everything your heart desires! However, you should always rely on the performance per channel and, if necessary, pay attention to the possible overall performance. Do you want to control a PWM fan? Then pay attention to this option BEFORE the purchase. However, whether one controls conservatively mechanically via rotary knobs or futuristically via a touch panel is up to everyone at the end. It is a pure question of taste and money.
Variant 4 – Motherboard
It is mainly up to the board to see what and how to regulate. It should also be noted that a maximum of 1 ampere can often flow per connection with a DC control. 12 watts sound like a lot, but it’s not. For PWM fans, it is more uncritical, because no electronic longitudinal dividers are used here, but the control is carried out in the fan. However, in addition to the fan curves to be defined, it is not possible to make situation-dependent, manual control later on.
Summary and conclusion
Of course, there is and still is much more to be said on the subject of air cooling, but all of this would also clearly go beyond the scope of this small compendium. I can only refer to the countless articles on cooling on my site, up to the graphics card optimization and a ghetto mod. But all this would go far too far to be chewed through again in a beginner’s tutorial. You read and then you will certainly see yourself there again!
- 1 - Einführung und Übersicht
- 2 - Unter- oder Überdruck? Wir wägen ab!
- 3 - Netzteilpositionierung: Oben oder unten?
- 4 - Airflow: Towerkühler senkrecht montieren
- 5 - Airflow: Towerkühler waagerecht montieren
- 6 - Airflow: Beliebte Montagefehler
- 7 - Airflow: Downblower-Besonderheiten
- 8 - Airflow: Festplattenkühlung
- 9 - Airflow: Grafikkarten richtig belüften
- 10 - Gehäuselüfter: Wissenswerte Grundlagen
- 11 - Unangenehm: Körperschall und Resonanzen
- 12 - Lüftersteuerung, Zusammenfassung und Fazit
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