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The large thermal paste tutorial with 85 tested pastes (2017)

In keeping with the hot season, we have once again dealt with the active cooling of CPU, GPU and other components and use our tried and tested and very successful tutorials for years. We have now... The Heatspreader If you cut through a CPU once in the middle, you can see very clearly that the actual processor chip (which) only makes up a part of the total area and thus only part of the externally visible metal cover... Uneven and with gradient As if the misery as such weren't big enough, the CPU manufacturers put one more on it. According to the just mentioned unevenness of the surface, the respective heatspreaders of both manufacturers are also available in the outer form of a... Reference to our How-To article If you want to get much further into this topic and even plan a conversion yourself, take our big how-to-guide at this point: graphics card cooling and thermal paste optim... Thermal guide pads for advanced users: miracle or glare? First, let's make sure that pad can never replace the thermal paste for the CPU or GPU. They should only be used to remove other components such as Voltage converter (VRM), ... Cleaning and grinding The a and o for a good success and the adhesion of the metallic liquid is a clean and above all grease-free surface on the radiator floor and CPU heatspreader! Of course, the most suitable are the rivers... Why four different measurements for the charts? At the time, we had collected and evaluated many suggestions and wishes of our readers in the forum, which led us in the end to the decision to use all thermal pastes with water cooling as well as... Let's start with the AiO compact water cooling, as it is currently the most used form of water cooling and is safe enough for the inexperienced. The Liquid Metal Pad has a burnin, so we can control the CPU for a short time... Under air, the deltas get slightly larger, but the order remains roughly the same. Here it becomes clear once again that very good pastes can already tend towards liquid metal, if you really have the spin out when applying. Much... The boxed coolers and everything from the entry-level segment that uses push pins or AMD's holding clips can't apply so much pressure that the tougher pastes can hold their own. This is especially true of the diamond pastes and Kingpin Coolings KP-x,... We quickly remember the extra chapter. The only conductive solutions we tested for this were the paste-like conductonaut slated by Thermal Grizzly and Coolaboratory's Metal Pad. The rest is too hot... Consistency is always a smaller or large spring foot for newcomers, because with increasing viscosity, the paste is then also what is called tough. The actually excellent Kingpin KP-x is such a classic representative, the si... The thinner a paste is, the easier it is to handle. However, other criteria are also taken into account here, because some pastes pull nasty threads when tearing off, which remind you of cheap Gauda on hot spaghettis. It's... Summary One should not expect miracles from (however expensive) pastes, but a significant improvement over the normal average. Nevertheless, in the end, it is often less important what you pay for a paste and what the...

Thermal guide pads for advanced users: miracle or glare?

First, let's make sure that pad can never replace the thermal paste for the CPU or GPU. They should only be used to remove other components such as Voltage converter (VRM), coils, etc., whose distance to the cooling surface is greater, also to cool down.

Let us now turn to what is often neglected enough, including by industry. First, let's consider the very bilile tape used here on the voltage converters (picture below). This is not a homogeneous material (which would certainly cost more in mass production), but a simple, foamed mass, which is compressed again by squeezing at the relevant points.

Nevertheless, air is and remains the worst travel companion on the laborious heat removal. So if you have compact pads of sufficient strength and quality (or plan to buy them), you should definitely use them and replace the inexpensive foam carpet as quickly as possible.

These thermal conductive pads (or Tapes) are already available for small money in a wide variety of strengths (and colors). By the way, you can orientate yourself perfectly to the printing points of the original for an optimal selection, for this too we have various chart entries at the appropriate place.

So what should we consider? The best thermal lyre pad is just good enough, you should avoid foamed pads if possible, never use thicker pads as really necessary and still make sure that there is still enough pressure and that the pads are not too thin.

The backplate with pads as additional cooler

Nothing helps with cooling more than even more cooling surface! That's why we are now showing how an existing backplate could be included profitably in the cooling concept.

Let us quickly remember the pictures of the backplate and the mentioned film, which was glued indoors. Either you remove it completely (as in the picture below) or you cut with a cutter knife in the relevant places and only partially remove this foil.

It is very important to clean the exposed areas that will later have contact with the pads very thoroughly from the adhesives of the film and possible fingerprints – we already wrote about 2-propanol.

Please always keep in mind that too soft or thin backplates could already touch contacts of the board when printed! Either you really only cut out the necessary areas or you work on these relevant areas with further tape as an insulating layer, which can also dissipate heat, which would make more sense overall.

In the concrete example, we now place a suitable two millimeter thick pad on the place of the board where the GPU socket sits and directly below the one, very hot memory module. We used a little thermal paste on the side towards the backplate for better contact, as its inner surface is not very smooth and also curves a little under tension.

Since the plate has various air holes, we have put them on before and marked the holes on the tape easily. This way, we can avoid paste swelling out of the holes when applied, because we simply leave air in these places. This can be observed on the yellow pad for the voltage converters, where the small blobs then sit exactly between the holes.

There are certainly no breathtaking jumps possible, but every degree Celsius you can save additionally is in sum a welcome member of the club of the busy carriers. Most of the time, the memory benefits the most, which remains significantly cooler. This is above all an increase in operational reliability and durability and also opens up overclocking possibilities that one did not have before.

What we need to consider:
First, remove any glued film and remove adhesive residues, place the pads cleanly and, if necessary, remove the adhesive slacks. Use some thermal paste, pay attention to the holes in the backplate and of course avoid short circuits (visual inspection, inserting paper for testing)

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About the author

Igor Wallossek

Editor-in-chief and name-giver of igor'sLAB as the content successor of Tom's Hardware Germany, whose license was returned in June 2019 in order to better meet the qualitative demands of web content and challenges of new media such as YouTube with its own channel.

Computer nerd since 1983, audio freak since 1979 and pretty much open to anything with a plug or battery for over 50 years.

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