First, I cleaned the map. My beloved isopropanol is the problem solver for everything that could not be removed stress-free with kitchen paper (radiator bottom) and fleece (circuit board). Please do not apply too much pressure, otherwise you will tear off the small SMD components faster than you would like. For all the gaps and edges, also and especially next to the GPU, I always take ear sticks, which you can also easily turn when pulling off (never pushing!). First dry, then again with isopropanol. Because there’s nothing nastier when different pastes mix on the radiator surface later. On the edges of the package, we can also see the areas where I took the precaution of not completely removing the remnants so as not to tear anything off. But there is no harm in that either.
After everything had dried (or evaporated), I put the memory back on with the original pads from my stock, the voltage converters on test with ultra-soft original pads from EVGA and then applied the thermal paste, with a few more words to say about it (see note and pictures on the previous page)
The Apex from Alphacool that I use can be pushed away perfectly, as we will see in a moment. The consistency is also ideal for graphics cards and nothing runs away or bleeds out. You can even use a little more, because the layer becomes really nice and thin if you tighten the screws properly and in the right order.
I took the card apart again after my tests and took a closer look at the imprints of the pads as well as the thermal paste distribution. You can’t really get it any better than that (I’m cheekily patting myself on the back here), because the quantity was almost perfect despite the chunky-looking sausage, and the layer was uniformly thin. That which is missing paste here….
…is then found on the radiator bottom. The imperfection, as we could admire it earlier in the original, has completely disappeared. This in turn also tells us that the chip does not have a hump, but rather Horst-Jason. Sometimes one really wonders whether it would not be better to require firearms licenses for screwdrivers as well, including a thorough practical examination of the applicants.
Yes, the temperatures were better, but the map remained completely dark at some point. Again. It had been clean, neatly connected and also patched back together exactly – and yet still defective. I could have stopped and given up at this point, of course, until I remembered Bernhard, who now undertakes such rescue operations full-time (among many other things). And since many readers have probably always wanted to know how such a “Private RMA” works, I have simply sent the game into overtime.
Starting on the next page, I will therefore also verbally hand over to Bernhard, who will then describe the further procedure from his point of view. And I can promise you, it remains exciting!
- 1 - Graphics card death, eBay and the circumstances
- 2 - Initial findings and head shaking
- 3 - Wound dressing and referral to specialist
- 4 - ELITKon who? Things that only the specialist can manage
- 5 - Disassemble, test and measure
- 6 - Flux, Reflow and the Miraculous Recovery
- 7 - Commissioning, summary and hospital address
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